Couture decoded to inspire your style.
Haute couture trend setting influence has extended way beyond generally well known brand marketing moves. Blame it on the growing numbers of the Couture business (hello newly born fortunes), blame it on the internet / social media overexposure, or blame it on media red carpet events coverage, as a matter of fact there is a certain “refined” taste that bleeds on upcoming pret-a-porter collections, and the overall way we dress for going out or just feeling pretty.
In Paris Haute Couture there’s a little bit of everything for everybody depending on the cultural identity of both designers / brands and clients, or I’d better say both things mixed since clients and designer somehow find themelves and there’s a bonding. Fresh off the runaway, here are some spring summer 2016 trends.
Embroidery is having its hype moment, (not one single look without it for Zuhaid Muhar , Elie Saab, and a little sophisticated touch on everything for Dior) Needlework virtuosism has become like a logo or a status symbol saying “hey what I’m wearing is couture”.
This surely testifies a return to craftmanship values once thought as lost, but let’s hope that we won’t reach the point where well executed embroidery becomes a Haute Couture label. As much as I love awesome embroidery, I believe that impressive handwork should be functional to designs and I feel that embellishments just can’t be an identity or a theme put on any creation/dress to conceal lack of inspiration in design or lack of consistance in a collection (but maybe i’ts just me looking too far ahead here).
Embroideries are either tone to tone or in complementary contrasting colors, but they’re always soft, while still being very present. The abundance of finely embroidered embellishments, is awesomely unique luxurious and pleasantly almost overwhelming.
Pantone color(s) of the year & trending colors 2016.
Nude, blush (Aouadi), greigeish (Elie Saab) are unskippable and rule everything, followed by mauve (Armani) or cold light blues. There is also a lot of cold pink (Zuhaid Muhar). No baby colors though, this is a very grown up sophisticated color palette settling perfect alternatives to black, especially for summer.
I may be dreaming, but I wouldn’t exclude an hypothetical influence of some successful streetstyle looks photographed just after Pantone’s color of the year was announced behind the choice of some color palettes (still, in between what was already offered by textile producers months ago). Who knows…
Of course bridal but most interestingly non bridal. And forget the labour day rule once agin please. Still colorwise, etheral white or close to white eggshell shades are offered as a trendy statement that you HAVE to make every now and then. Always dainty, somehow not fragile but sophisticated, we know that white gowns are a thing for red carpets and events. White now goes well beyond the classic bridal closing look of Haute Couture and assertively enters our wardrobes.
How did designers achieve this? While some collections may seem mainly bridal (plus bridesmaid and guests) (Zuhaid Muhar), others keep it more polyvalent with fresh ethereal variations on the all white look. Mainly think layers and layers of soft tulle.
So hold on to your tulle skirts ladies. Impalpable fabrics surface at one point or another almost in every show, even for designers openly loving thicker textiles (Valentino)
Intricate luxurious fabrics.
Textiles such as brocade and velvet are strongly resurfacing. Yet another way to show luxury. Velvet is not only expensive to produce, but it requires great craftmanship skills, ditto for brocade which can also include precious metals.
Haute Couture is going towards ways to differentiate mass market “perceived” luxury from REAL luxury by bringing the look to a level simply not repicable AT ALL or in ANY WAY in fast fashion.
I can imagine though, a wave of simplified fabrics ispired by the looks of luxurious materials.
A diversified creation landscape emerges trough a newly found non Parisian and non central european growing taste.
Mixing your cultural identity with western taste in clothing looks cool again and therefore leads to a differenciation in offer.
It is growingly obvious that designers create looks with in mind the final destination of their pieces, Haute Couture is increasingly focused on what sells. (Zuhaid Muhar collection for instance looks bridal, but it’s easily convertible to red carpet.)
Sheerness. Everywhere. Anything. Just give us some tulle, but unfussy please. With tactically placed embroideries to cover what should NOT be seen (Zuhaid Muhar) Strategically placed sheernes that cleverly flatters the body. Embroidered tulle seems to be de rigueur.
Long skirts everything.
Long wide skirted but body skimming dresses. Fabrics are flowing, as opposed to form fitting body con gowns. In a word your game should be sexy through how unclutteredly fluid you dress falls on your body.
Close to the body cut but not vacuumed long dresses are another fresh option (Valentino).
Also, higher on the front and lower at the back dresses are trending and they were featured on several catwalks. (Giambattista Valli, Zuhaid Muhar )
Deep V neckline.
Just like I recently noticed when analyzing the Golden Globes dresses Haute Couture confirms the emphasis on lower necklines (Valentino). If you are more than a B cup you may want to perfect your duct tape skills (me, duh). Deep well cut necklines are an unexpectedly easy and flattering solution to bring up a look in real life.
Opulent daywear, rutilant embellishments.
Luxurious non business day outfits, with something fancy, something sparking, strategically placed hard enough to tailor volumes that scream Haute Couture. Think daytime imaginative queen and you’ll get the concept. This queen does a little avant-garde, but she pairs it with rutilant decadent gold, the feeling is sophisticated almost decadent abundance.
Snake embellishments that feel vaguely new bohemian, but truth be told, the main vibe here is early 20th century Italian Risorgimento meets roaring ‘20s (Valentino, Alberta Ferretti). Animal inspired decorations are notoriously risky, will they grow?
Image credits Vogue, Now Fashion.